Exfoliation removes dead cells that accumulate on the top layer of the skin. It has several benefits and it can be done in various ways. Let's find out what they are and how to choose the most suitable one.

There are three types of exfoliation: mechanical exfoliation, enzymatic exfoliation and chemical exfoliation. They have the same objective, but act differently using specific tools and products.

 MECHANICAL (or physical) EXFOLIATION

The term "scrub" literally means "to rub". It is a friction of the stratum corneum that allows the elimination of dead cells that deposit on the surface, through the use of granular, spherical substances or fine powders.

It is called mechanical because it is applied to the skin with a light massage and then rinsed.

They are simple to use and give immediate results. Ideal for normal and mature skin, they can however irritate sensitive skin.

ENZYMATIC EXFOLIATION

From a technical point of view, an enzyme is a chemical substance present in living beings, which generates changes in other substances without modifying itself.

Enzymatic exfoliation uses proteolytic enzymes, such as papain or bromelain, which degrade the proteins of the epidermis (keratin) transforming them into simple amino acids. In this way the dead cells dissolve.

The enzymes permeate the upper tissue layers of the skin, improving the skin's brightness and elasticity

Enzymatic peeling does not alter the PH of the skin, and this makes it suitable for the most sensitive skin.

CHEMICAL PEEL

Chemical exfoliants, once applied to the skin, have a keratolytic action, i.e. they reduce the cohesion of corneocytes by direct action on their junctions (desmosomes). Consequently, the detachment and removal of dead cells that settle on the surface is promoted and, at the same time, the renewal mechanisms of the stratum corneum are stimulated.

Once the product has been applied, it is necessary to respect a processing time which varies depending on the type of exfoliant used, its concentration and the blemish you want to treat.

Once the application time has elapsed, the chemical exfoliant is removed and the skin is carefully cleansed.

The acids that are used for this type of peeling are the AHA alpha hydroxy acids (e.g. mandelic, glycolic, lactic)   and the BHA beta hydroxy acids (e.g. salicylic)

How to choose?

Here are three things you need to consider before choosing the one best suited to you :

• the first element to consider when choosing an exfoliant is the skin type;
• the second is the frequency with which to practice exfoliation (generally no more than once or twice a week).
• The third evaluation criterion is product ingredients (INCI).